The lonely town of Cerro Castillo

In the nature during a sunset, the Cerro Castillo in the background. There is a signpost that shows the way.

Continuing north on the Carretera Austral, I stop in Cerro Castillo, a really small town. I heard that the area is amazing for trekking. For sure, I won’t regret it.

What the hell did I stop there…

On the road to Coyhaique

While my friends I met in Chile Chico prefer going directly to Coyhaique, the main city of the region, I decide to stop here alone. At this time, it is totally crazy, the sky is all gray and the rain starts. However, I am an optimist and the trek is renowned magnificent.

With those friends, we built up a van from Puerto Rio Tranquilo. Until Coyhaique, they pay 10,000C$/each and I pay 7,000C$ as Cerro Castilo is closer. Regarding hitchhiking, it is working well in this part. I met two girls that did it easily.

A really small town

You have not a lot of things in the city. A few shops, that are part of the house, often close. You have to wait the owner comes and opens the door. There are a few Hospidaje as well. The first I find along the main road is too expensive 18’000C$. While going further, I find a better one. A bed in a two beds room for 10,000C$.

A road crossing a town with mountains in the background
The main avenue with nothing!

After the rain comes the sun

Although the weather was horrible until 6 pm, suddenly a beautiful sky arrives. Finally, this weather will stay until I leave the city the day after. I can say I am a lucky man!

Walk to the Cava De Los Manos

Reach the museum

As it is only 6 pm and the sun is going to sunset at 9 pm, I have quite a lot of time. But not enough for doing the walk to the Cerro Castillo. So I take a look to the Cava de Los Manos. It is a cave with hand marks from prehistory. I saw a sign about it while in the van at the entrance of the city.

Whereas it seems to be close, I realize that the “entrance of the city” is already one kilometer away. Next, I continue for another kilometer to reach the museum dedicated to the caves. As it is too late and close, I meet a lonely man that tells me that the cave is in the mountain in front of me. Immediately, I decide to go on the mountain and see if I can get it on my own.

In the search of the cave

First, I follow a path to the right side that takes me on the other side of the mountain. When I reach a meadow, after 3 kms, I guess I am on the wrong side (Next picture in the middle). I decide to go backward as I also feel hungry.

Suddenly, while I am walking, I discover that there is another track to the left side signed with pots with marks white and orange (See the article cover).  This sounds better for reaching the cave. The sun is still up and I can’t leave without trying it. Thus, I start to hike this way.

However, after having walked two more kilometers, I still don’t reach the end, neither see it. I remember I have 5 kms to get back to the Hospidaje, the sun is almost gone and I am really hungry. Therefore, I prefer to give up. I still believe the cave is at the end so if you go there, let me know if you find it!

Funny fact, during the whole walk, I was accompanied by a dog. More than the company, he was hunting everything in the area. Thus, I saw lots of hares and even an armadillo in a bush!

Walk the Cerro Castillo

Find the entrance

The next morning, the real experience starts. With a good weather, I launch into the walk. I have to admit that it was tough to find the beginning of the trail. First, a map I took in the tourist office isn’t clear and doesn’t help me. Hopefully, I meet nice people that head me closer to the entrance. After reaching an empty cabin, I finally meet a girl that is doing the trek as well. She explains to me that a run is occurring this morning and the trail is fully marked. I discovered, later, this article that explains how to find the entrance.

A woodgate with a path
Here, the beginning of the trail, not evident to guess it

The walk

This walk is one of my favorite one I did. Maybe because it is a really quiet place as not too famous. Or simply due to the marvelous landscapes. Anyway, the track starts in the forest then continues in an area of bushes. The last part and the steepest one is only dry landscapes and actually tough to climb. But as for the Fitz Roy in El Chaltén, the reward is worth suffering for it. The view of the Cerro Castillo mountain towers over the lake is incredible.

The valley surrounded by mountains
The panorama of the valley from the Cerro Castillo
The Cerro Castillo in the background with the lake in front of.
Global view of the end of the path of Laguna de Cerro Castillo

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