El Chaltén is a small town in the South of Argentina. After hitchhiking with two friends from El Calafate, we reach the city. Though very small, the place is among the best for outdoors activities: trekking, climbing, camping… This place is still one my favorite in Patagonia, we call it with my friend the paradise without WiFi…

Paradise for outdoor activities

Trekking

The area around is among the best for trekking. First reason, it is really beautiful. Next, you have a lot of different trails that start from the city and can be done in a day so you don’t need to camp. On top of that, you can camp in specific spots for free if you wish. And last but not least, there is no entrance fee for going there!

Laguna de Los Tres

The trail of Laguna de Los Tres is the most impressive one of the area. The beginning of the trail is a bit steep and the last kilometer is also very steep. In between, the trail is flat. You enjoy nature surrounded you and the view of the Fitz Roy getting closer. During the last kilometer, there are 400 meters to climb, quite tough. However, the final view of the lake and the Fitz Roy is worth suffering for it.

During my way back, I also walk to the glacier of Las Piernas Blanca. The loop adds 4 kms to the initial trail of the Fitz Roy. Even if the view is nice, you keep quite far from the glacier. The whole trip with this glacier took me around 7 hours for 24 kms in total without my lunch/nap break.

Laguna Torre

The trail of Laguna Torre is the second famous trail of the area and worth doing it. Easier than the Laguna de Los Tres, the landscapes that surround me during the way delight me. As always, I wake up a bit earlier in order to avoid the rush hour on the trail. I start the trail at 9 in the morning. I reach the top around midday welcomed with lots of wind. Don’t forget a jacket against the wind or you will regret it. Despite, I have one I only stay the time of my lunch break. Directly after, I go back to the city. Even though the trail is gorgeous, the final view of the lake is less impressing than the Laguna de Los Tres. For that reason, I recommend to do this trail first and the Laguna de Los Tres after. The entire loop took me around 5 hours for doing the 18 kms without counting the stop at the lake for lunch.

The map of the trekking is avalaible here.

Climbing

Not only walking, the area is also great for rock climbing. Those two options are available bouldering and routes climbing.

Bouldering

With a french friend I meet in the hostel, we rent a crash pad for 200A$ for a full day. We begin to the area in the north of the city, close to the beginning of the trail to the Fitz Roy. After the lunch break, we try the one at the left of the city close to lake actually dried up. Other places are good, however, with a too high level for me.

Routes

Also, a group of Chilean climbers offers me to join them for route climbing. This was a great experience as it was my first time in outdoor. Despite a strong wind, I lead the route and reach the top. Unfortunately, the Chileans leave the day after so I can’t practice a second time. We practiced along the road where you can go to the Laguna Torre de Agostini. I also saw other routes after crossing the bridge over Rio de Las Vueltas.

The city

The city is a really small town with more tourists than locals. However, the atmosphere is good as everybody here looks for a quiet place and relaxing in nature. Be careful, the city is under active construction. I can bet I won’t be able to recognize it in a few years. So don’t wait for too much!

The map of the city is available here.

Living

I stay first with one of my friend in Aylen-Aike Hostel. A good one with a funny owner that allows you to stay the day after for free while you clean your bed. It is a good option if you have your bus at 8 pm the day after. The price of 300A$ is the reason I changed. I decided to prolong my stay in El Chaltén and another friend showed me a cheaper place. The cheaper hostel called Las Cuatro Estaciones is at the end of the main street. For sure, the quality is worth but for a price of 150A$, I won’t complain.

Although I prepare the food myself in the hostel as it was cheaper, I found a good alternative. The place is called Che Empanadas. It is a shop with an impressive choice of Empanadas. Actually, the most impressive one I have ever seen. I try spinach, Roquefort (cheese), sweet potatoes, Cordero (lamb)… And this is only part of it. Even if they are not the cheapest one (25A$/each), they are well cooked and… you are in Patagonia in the middle of nowhere, you can’t complain.

For a refreshment after a walk, try one of the bars along the main road. Most of it do a happy hour from 5 pm to 8 pm. For one beer paid, you get two!

Wifi

As I say in the title everything is amazing except the WiFi. In both hostels I have tried, the better I can receive was text and during low attendance. An alternative is to go to specific places with better WiFi. Here my personal list:

• Yanu: a cafe where you can drink or eat at the same time
• Ranche Grande: The biggest hostel of the city
• Lode Trivi: Another hostel where a friend stayed

But in any case, if too many people are connected, it will suck 🙂

Other links about El Chaltén

http://www.trace-ta-route.com/randonnee-fitz-roy-patagonie/

http://www.ditchthemap.com/travel-blog/2015/11/23/4-days-in-el-chalten-argentina

http://bobo-patagonie.over-blog.com/2014/02/el-chalten-1.html