On Christmas, I felt my first earthquake in Castro. For the new year, I want to reach Santiago to be with a local friend. The schedule lets me only a few days for doing a stop in the middle. There is this city called Pucón. A renowned place for trekking and relaxing in hot springs.
Activities
Pucón is surrounded by mountains, rivers and even volcanoes. All of this provide an unbelievable place for practicing outdoor activities. Here, my personal choice for a 3 days stay.
Trek Los Lagos in Huerquehue park
The arrival
Early in the morning, for avoiding the heat and the rush, I take the bus for the small station Buses Caburgua. The bus costs 3,600C$ for the round trip. At 8, there are already too many people, a second bus is added. After a 1h trip, the arrives at the control of the forest wardens. Once I pay the 4,000C$ entrance fee, I am allowed to go into the park.
You can also camp in the park, but surprisingly the price is crazy: 15,000C$ per night!
The park contains mainly 2 ways. The first one is the trek of Los Lagos, 18 kms long for the round trip. During the trek, you discover 6 lakes. You can continue from this one to another one that adds 12 kms. But, you need to sleep in the park. The reward are the hot spring at the end! The other way is called San Sebastian, it is a trek with a nice view of all the park. It is as long as the Los Lagos trail but steeper.
The trek
I choose the trek Los Lagos as it is renowned very beautiful. Directly, I see the first lake that is lying next to the entrance house. Next, in the first kilometers, I only climb the mountain. When I reach the viewpoints, I start admiring the view: the giant volcano over the park and the lake.
The next lake I see is the Lago Chico. From this lake, the track is not steep anymore, only hilly. The track splits in two ways, it is a loop that takes you to 4 other lakes. This part is the most beautiful, each lake has its particularity. And it is so peaceful!
After taking lunch close to a lake, it is time to come back. During the way back, I stop at a waterfall. It is a good spot for doing a break but a bit away from the main track. I recommend to do it on the way back, as the top of the trail is more impressive.
During all the part in the loop, the temperature was rising and the sun shining strongly. This are amazing condition for lizards, they were surrounding me everywhere. On top of that, they were not afraid, so I was able to see them closely.
Santuario El Cañi
The arrival
The second day, the second trek. I heard about a trail steeper and more challenging with a beautiful final view. You finish on a tight hill with a 360-degree view! Again, I leave with the bus at 8 but from the Pullman terminal. Some friends recommended that it is really steep at the beginning and thus it is better to do it with the coolness of the morning.
I ask the driver to stop at El Sendero El Cani. From there, you cross the forest warden. The guard there explains me the trail and gives me an outlet with information about nature and history. I finish by paying the 3,500C$ for the entrance fee.
The trek
The trail is split into many sections with at the end of each, a nice place where to stop and a big sign. The beginning of the trek is really steep until you reach the 3rd sign. I appreciate being in the shadow of the morning. When the temperature is warmer, I am in the next section that is flat forest until the last part. Again, the last section is a small path very steep.
You have point of drinkable water marked on the map the guard gives you. Thus, you don’t have to take too much water with you as you can fill your bottle again.
Finally, after the last steep section, I am on the top. Really, the view is impressive. One of the best I have had until now. A 360-degree view makes you feel totally free. I admire the four volcanoes visible, lunch, sleep and it is time to come back.
It is possible to do a loop for viewing many lakes that is around 2 kilometers long. I didn’t do this extra loop from the main path as I could already saw a great overview from the top. Moreover, I already did the trail of Los Lagos, so I already saw enough lakes.
Go home
For going back to Pucón, just wait for the bus on the other side of the road in front of the entrance of the trek. I recommend you to ask the guard in the morning when the bus are coming so you don’t wait needlessly. it is about one bus per hour.
First, I planned to relax in the Termas Los Pozones. Those hot springs are far from the city and more expensive but better. I gave up after the trek since it was 35 degrees. Definitely too hot for enjoying water with the same temperature.
Hydrospeed
After two days of exhausted trekking, the temperature is continuing rising. Thus, I want to refresh myself in the river. I have two options Rafting or Hydrospeed. Hydrospeed is also in rapids. However, you are completely immersed in the water and you have a board. A friend that came from the North of South America told me that rafting is quite common elsewhere but not Hydrospeed. So I book the Hydrospeed tour.
The Hydrospeed tour is in level 3 rapids. Rafting is up to level 4, the maximum in the area. Everybody from any tour operator finishes in Aventur close to Palguin 361. I believe there is only one Hydrospeed tour. It costs around 17,000C$.
It was a pleasant and refreshing afternoon in the water. During all the way down, you can admire the surrounded landscapes. However, I was not totally satisfied. I did a lot of Hydrospeed during summer camp, so I have a good level. Thus, firstly the rapids were not that impressive to me. Secondly, the staff is really (too much) protective so I was not able to completely enjoy the rapids. Obviously, it is for security reason, but I feel disappointed. Probably, I would have preferred doing rafting in more extreme condition.
Another extreme activity is to climb the Villarrica volcano. It is a steep climb in the snow where you finish at the top of the volcano, namely 3,000 meters high. On top of that, you can watch briefly the crater with the lava if the weather is good. Last but not least, you go down sliding on the snow! The price is around 100€. I renounced due to the price and I was satisfied with the view of El Cani.
Commodities
Staying in a hostel
I stayed in the Willhouse hostel. A nice place for a short and entertaining stay. The comfort is simple and the kitchen rather small. However, you have a roof top for taking a beer under the sky. And as always, there is a shared Asado. Moreover, the owner is really friendly and doesn’t hesitate to share Asado with you.
Moving in the area with the bus
If you want to reach all the places around Pucon, the mini bus is the best. The departure is from a small terminal. I found at least 3 of them: Buses Caburgua, Pullman terminal and another small one in front of the Pullman terminal. It is better to check the timetable first at the terminal the day before. It is changing regularly.
Coming from Isla de Chiloé
I left Castro around 9 am with a Pullman bus. For 6,000C$, it took me to Puerto Mont. The journey was around 4 hours. Here, I bought a ticket at the office for going to Pucon. It is 7 hours journey that costs 9,700C$. Thankfully, I planned it well and just well 30 minutes in the Puerto Mont terminal.
Links