After a few days on the Argentinian side of Patagonia, I finally discover the Chilean Side. More green, rainier… We can’t get everything we want! Let’s discover the first marvel called Marble Caves on the Carretera Austral.
A long way to enter in Chile
The journey from El Chaltén to Puerto Rio Tranquilo is long, full of new developments and with a variety of landscapes. Here the story.
Bus El Chaltén – Los Antiguos
I leave El Chaltén in the evening for a 10 hours bus journey to Los Antiguos, the Argentinian city close to the border. Still happy with the deal I did with a friend of the hostel, we paid 800A$ each instead of 1100A$ as we booked together. Only one company is doing the offer. I arrive in Los Antiguos at 7 am, a bit too early as everything was still close. So, I decide to continue my night inside the bus station until the border opens.
About Los Antiguos
The city of Los Antiguos is actually famous for the Argentinian people as it is a peaceful nature place. There are at least two attractions. First, the Cava de Los Manos that is a cave with hands drawing from the indigenous during the prehistory. The second one is the Cereza Fiesta in January. Literally, it is the party of the cheery. Unfortunately, I was too early…
Crossing the border to Chile
Even if there are daily tourists that cross the border every day, there is no van between then. Thus first, we take a taxi from the city to the Argentinian Border for 35A$ (3,5kms). Avoid a minibus, it is usually more expensive. Next, we walk and hitchhike for reaching the Chilean Border (5 kms). As on the paper for the car, we are not written as passengers from the Argentinian side, the Chilean customs don’t let us continue with the same car. Let’s do it again, we walk and hitchhike another car for reaching Chile Chico (5,5 kms).
Introducing to the Carretera Austral
While the city of Chile Chico is really nice and call me for discovering it, I have to refuse. I already want to do too many things to do on the Carretera Austral. After we study the possibilities for reaching Puerto Rio Tranquilo, here the list:
- Minibus with the company …: about 20,000C$ if enough people
- Minivan with a random guy in the city: around 11’000C$ for 11 people
- Hitchhiking: Only being patient
The time of the journey is around 4h30 and. After, we finally say that we are in Puerto Rio Tranquilo.
Don’t forget money
The next city on the North of the Carretera Austral with an ATM is Coyhaique. Don’t forget to withdraw enough money in Chile Chico.
The main attraction: Marble Cave
The boat tour
After a rainy morning, the sun appears shyly in the sky. As the weather is really changeable, we decide immediately to book a boat. As we are a group of 10 people, we prefer to organize our own boat. However, you can also join a boat if you are not enough. We pay 8’000C$ and we go on board of the boat. Though we only start the way, the rain comes again. Hopefully, we are covered as if it was Winter over-equipped with raincoat lent from the tour operator. Finally, after 30 minutes of fighting against wind and rain, we reach the caves. A great reward as the storm stops!
Useful tips on the boat
The weather is very changeable, so cover yourself well. Overall against the water and the wind that can change a pleasant tour to a nightmare. Ask the tour to lend you a water cover for your legs. If the water is rough, waves can wet you more than you think (True story).
The Cathedral of marble
The Marble Caves are spread along the coast, and each part has a different shape and fills with different colors. The boat take us inside, where we see the marble from very close, we almost touch it! The final attraction is the Cathedral of Marble, a big rock a bit away of the other caves with a beautiful shape and a unique marble color white and red. Finally, we go back after around 30 minutes of visiting. The way back is also venturous, we get a facing wind that makes a tough water. So rough that my neighbor on the boat falls from his seat. He was sick of the boat, I love it…
This tour of 1h30 is a good way for enjoying this unique natural site!
Accommodation
We booked a cabin for a night in Cabañas Silvana. We paid 8’000C$ each, a bit less than the usual price as we booked all the 10 people together. The cabin was nice but the owner was not fair. While doing a group dinner, we made a bit of noise. Instead of only asking us to keep it down, she started to yell and try to clean our cabin. It was a bit ashamed to be treated as a baby.
More information about the Caves
http://www.ooaworld.com/the-marble-caves-of-puerto-rio-tranquilo-chile/
http://www.atlasobscura.com/places/marble-caves-of-chile-chico
https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g1409472-d2055904-r256951135-Catedral_de_Marmol-Puerto_Rio_Tranquilo_Aisen_Region.html
