After struggling to hitchhike under the rain from Coyhaique, I finally arrive in Chaitén. This small town, devastated in 2008 due to an eruption, is now rising from its ashes. The famous activity is the Pumalín park with a unique vegetation and of course volcanoes.

Pumalín park

The park is a private one owned by Douglas Tompkins until his death and now by a Chilean foundation. Douglas is one of the founders of North Face. For all the things you want to do in the Pumalín park, you can’t count on the public transport. The North part of the park is reachable by either hitchhiking or taking the bus at 11 am that goes to Puerto Mont. The bus lets you wherever you want along the road for 1,000C$.

The active Chaitén Volcano

I select to do first the Chiatén Volcano as I heard it is incredible. After taking, the bus to that place I start walking under a gray sky. Fortunately, it is not raining. The trail is well signed and you have some information at the entrance about the last eruption. All the path is hash or rest of the last eruption. The last part of the trail is the steepest one, just a small effort for enjoying the top. I wish I could have had a blue sky for viewing all the valley and the top of the volcano. But the weather is still against me even if not that strength as in Puyuhuapi. The round trip took me less than 3 hours without counting the lunch break on the top.

It is also possible to visit another Volcano called Michinmahuida. However, the trek is a bit longer 8 hours to 6 if you are fast. By taking the bus at 11 am, you are going to be kind of short of time. As I was not sure about the possibility to hitchhike back, I preferred avoid it.

Trekking in the forest

For my second day, I want only to delight the forest. I decide to go the Sendero Tronador as I can continue easily to Sendero Alerces while walking 500 meters on the Carretera Austral. Moreover, there is the Cascada Escondida 1,5 kms later if you have still motivation. I only did the first two ones.

Sendero Tronador

As always, I take the 11 am bus that lets me at the entrance of the Sendero Tronador. From there, I walk in the forest almost alone for all the trek. The forest is so impressive. The vegetation, due to the rain, is really dense. This is especially my favorite type of forest, it reminds me the jungle without the heat and the bugs! The final is a nice view to an isolated valley. There is a camping if you continue, not worth seeing it except for being close to the water of the lake.

The trail is steep all way long first upward and next downward to the valley. Moreover, this day it was really slippery as it was completely wet. Hopefully, the trail contains wood path and wood ladder for avoiding being stuck in the mud.

Sendero Alerces

After my first delighting trek, I continue on the Carretera Austral to the Alerces trail. Unfortunately at this time, around 1 pm, there is no car on the road. However, as it is only 500 meters to walk, I reach the beginning of the trail quickly.

This trail, a loop of 40 mins, is famous for seeing the specific species of tree called Alerce. Regularly on the way, I read the different signs that explain the history of the relation between the tree and human. Also, I learn characteristics about Alerce tree. As a resume, it is quick, informative and gorgeous.

Alerce tree or Fitzroya is able to reach the height of 40-60 meters and lives up to 3000 years old!

Finally, after the Alerce trail, I end with two choices. One car is going to Chaitén Volcano and can drop me at the Cascada trail. Or another car is going directly to Chaitén. As I start to be exhausted and I am not sure if there is another ferry that drops a lot of cars later, I choose the first one. It is around 3 pm when I embark in the back of pick up for my best tour on the Carretera Austral. All the way back, I admire the landscape surrounding me.

There is also a South part of the Pumalín park. You can reach this part from Chaitén only by hitchhiking. A bus going to Futaleufú can move you forward, however there are still 5 kms to hitchhike. In this South part, there are many small treks with nice views and thermal baths (3,600C$).

Ville

Accommodation

I  stayed 3 nights in the Hostal Pumatrekking at the border of the city close to the open air museum. The place is comfortable with good beds, a home cinema and many guitars. The only drawbacks, the gas cooker was out during my stay so I had to go to the camping gas cooker outside in the garden. Furthermore, they didn’t light the fire often even if I asked for it. Thus it was really cold. As an example, it was 13 degrees in the morning, a bit too cold for me…

Get a map

There is a place called Bus Natour, that is actually a bus transformed into a food truck. If I was disappointed by the food as the meal is really small for the price. They provide a nice map and good advises. Else, you can also take coffee here.

Open Air Museum

A part of the city remains as it was after the 2008 eruption. This place called open air museum is kept like this to always remember what happened here. The view of houses covered with meters of ashes is impressive. You can freely walk between the houses and see the damages. After the visit, you definitively don’t want to bother the Volcano.

Finally, after 10 days on the Carretera Austral, I leave it to my next destination: the Island of Chiloé. Goodbye Carretera, it was a good trip!