Huayna Potosi, a mountain close to La Paz, a mountain with a summit at 6088 meters, a mountain I am going to climb, no, a mountain I climbed. I booked a 3 days tour that took me to the top.
Day 1: First Base Camp
Arriving
We left La Paz early in order to be at the first base camp at midday. The first base camp was located at 4700 meters high. Normally a lot, for the mission, nothing. There was still 1388 meters to climb for reaching the top.
After we arrived, we saw the monster. But, we were still overconfident. Normal, we just had been only in the car. No effort, no pain, just relaxing. However, during the meal, the first doubt appeared. What are the statistics about succeeding it ? How is the oxygen at 6088 meters ? Am I really going to wake up at midnight the last night ?
Training
Hopefully, the first day was quite relaxing. We had time to acclimate to the higher altitude. We also did a walk to warm up. During that walk, we gathered the group: 2 persons with one guide. I gathered with another French girl, that was alone. She looked very motivated, I liked that. Our guide taught us how to walk. There are 3 ways: on little steep way, medium steep way and hard steep way. Except for some ways where we needed our ice axe, with the crampons it was not complicated. Moreover, they told us that the summit was not technic so we won’t meet such steep slope.
Next the training, we were taken to a spot for ice climbing. This was not for the summit, only for fun. Although I loved the ascension, it was very exhausting.
Day 2: Second Base Camp
The second day, after a chilling morning, we took our equipment in the backpack and we climbed. We were going from 4700 meters to 5130 meters. Not too much, however, with the backpack heavier than 10kg, it changed the game. Though it was snowy, the days were rather warm due to the sun. The effort didn’t help for cooling down.
After a 3 hours trekking, here we were. The second base camp had a nice view of the mountains. Nevertheless, no one was fooled. In a few hours, in the middle of the night, we were going to tackle the summit. There was no time for useless effort now.
Day 3: Tackle the summit
The ascension by night
At midnight, the guides woke us up. It was difficult, although we went to bed at 7pm, almost no one slept before 9/10pm. We were tired, we were stressed, we didn’t really understand what happened. Finally, after a breakfast and putting our equipment, we started. I was still with the same climbing companion.
At the beginning, we started very slowly, the guide didn’t want to burn us. But, for me, it was slow, too slow. I took on myself and said: “Enjoy the experience”. Finally, after 2 hours, I changed the group. In my next group, I was with a faster companion and the guide also was more competitive. I discovered later on that my first partner gave up at 5700 meters.
With my new group, we began to go faster. Now, I liked it more, I was breathing harder, I had less time to think. Although we could keep the rhythm, the guide slowed us down and made more and longer breaks. He told us that with that speed we were going to arrive before the sunrise. We would have missed the beauty of the summit due to the dark. He added that we will stay only 15 minutes at the top as there are not enough space and it is cold.
After the level of 5700 meters, the game is changing. My breath was stronger, even with a smaller speed. My companion started to suffer. He wanted more breaks, I felt behind me the tension on the rope, he was slowing down. Breathing stronger wasn’t a big deal, I was used to endurance sport. However, as I already told it I am very sensitive to altitude.
My stomach blocked itself. It was a weird sensation where I just couldn’t eat something, like if nothing were going to enter my stomach. I was only able to eat two cookies more, rather small for already 4 hours of effort. Hopefully, the guide took hot coffee with a lot of sugar. Drinking was not a problem. It avoided me to be ravenous and on top of that warmed me again.
The last 90 meters to climb were difficult and you needed all your attention. The way was a narrow ridge, 30 cm wide, with a steep slope on both sides. I put one step before the other one slowly and carefully. I didn’t want to fall so close to the goal. Actually, after doing it, it looked more difficult that it was. With the help of the crampons, I was carefully hung to the snow.
The return after the sunrise
Once we reached the summit and we enjoyed it, we had to return. The way back was funnier, each meter down and you felt again your breath increasing. With my motivated team, we ran it. In less than 2 hours, we were back at the high camp, enjoying the second breakfast.
The final return until La Paz
The hardest part, or maybe the most boring one was probably the way back from the high camp to the low camp. Again, we carried our equipment. But, this time we added our tiredness. Even with my breakfast, a soup, cookies and soda, I lacked energy. My legs were less willing to support my weight. Moreover, the last 2 kms of the track was partly covered by ice. Caution and concentration were again necessary. Hopefully, no one injured himself. After this last effort, here I was, relaxing in the returning car to La Paz, sleeping.
I loved this experience, that mixed beauty, concentration and challenge. The only fact of reaching the top removed all the pain. And so, I am already willing to attempt a mountaineering experience again!