A Christmas and an earthquake on Chiloé island

A fireplace with a Christmas tree and gifts.

The last 10 days on the Carretera Austral were adventurous. Now, it is Christmas and time for relaxing. I have decided to be in Castro on Chiloé island as it looks beautiful and peaceful. Peaceful ?! I won’t say it again after the Christmas I have spent.

My trembling Christmas

A lonely celebration

Usually, I spend Christmas with all my family gathered at my grandparent’s house. But this year, I have chosen to travel in South America. Thus, I find myself at 12,000 kms from my family. In Castro, the main city of Chiloé island, I am staying in the Hostal Cordillera. It is a family house with beds in dormitory and private rooms close to the coast. After spending time in cities on the Carretera Austral, Castro looks big and dynamic. It is not bad at all since the atmosphere of Christmas is more present. In my Hostal, I see my first Christmas tree surrounded by gifts!

A morning surprise

The next morning is a sunny day, the one you know you will enjoy it. I am taking my breakfast and thinking about what to do on a Christmas day. Around 10:30 am, I start hearing a pneumatic drill. My only thought is who is working on a Christmas day. This sound is quickly followed by noises from the second floor, I heard steps like if a marathon is happening. Still a bit asleep, I don’t realize immediately that there is only one person upstairs that cannot do that much of noise.

A bathroom where the tiling is off the wall and lying broken on the ground.
Damages due to the earthquake

Too late, now all the house starts shaking. From the living room, I see the owner standing at the door of her room, she looks panicked. That doesn’t help me. I want to go out but close the door, there is a television on a 2-meter high shelve. I prefer to avoid taking a risk. It is worth a good idea as just 2 seconds later the television falls down. And at the same time, the vibration stops.

It was an earthquake, 7.7 of Magnitude. If it is common for Chile, it is the first one for me. Such an impressive experience. Fortunately, the damages are only material. Tiling and vessels in the house, Windows in the street. Southern and closer to the epicenter, some roads are damaged as well. But this will not be a problem as I continue North after.

Chiloé Island

A big river with some boats and a hill in the background
A typical landscape on Chiloé island

Castro

Next, I am telling my occupation during the Christmas. One day is enough and worth spending it as the place is beautiful.

Woodhouses on stilts along the coast

The coast is the best place for enjoying the city. On the side of the city, you have colored houses on stilts and small shopping. On the other side of the river, you delight the common landscapes of Chiloé, small green hills.

Wood houses on stilts in many colors
The famous colored houses

It is also possible to go the fish market and taste Ceviche. Unfortunately, on Christmas day, the fish market was closed and so I was not able to try it.

The church

The Island is famous for all the churches spread everywhere and build mostly in wood. Some are even part of the UNESCO heritage. Don’t forget to visit the one in Castro, in the center of the city. The first surprise, she is yellow. The second one is that all the inside is made of wood.

A yellow church
The main church of Castro

A running for eliminating calories

I go running during the afternoon on the Christmas day on the other side of the Rio De La Chacra. I follow a loop composed with the street Ten Ten and Del Balneario. Those streets are quiet since there are only a few houses. The path is not flat as it is on hills. But, this allows me to enjoy the view on one side of the city of Castro and on the other side the hills. From my Hostal and the loop included, it is around 10 kms.

Reach Chiloé island from Chaitén

The inside of church only made of wood
Inside of the church of Castro

The boat from Chaitén to Quellon

I used the ferry from the company Naviera Austral. As there is not a journey every day, it is better to check the website or the office in Chaitén. It costs 12,000C$ for a trip of 5 hours. You let your big at the entrance in a safety place. Next, you have the main room with the seats and a snack at the end.

The bus from Quellon to Castro

I didn’t check before where was the terminal, so I was a bit lost when I left the ferry. Unfortunately, it was also raining. However, for that reason, I didn’t lose my time. I asked people in the street for finding the terminal where buses leave to Castro every hour. There, I asked for the student price student, 3,000C$. Actually, it was my last student discount as my card expired in December 2016…

More Links

A website with lots of amazing places, here the Dock of Souls on Chiloé island

An article about how to reach Castro from Southern in the Carretera Austral and what to do there

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