Welcome in Buenos Aires, capital and main city of Argentina. While visiting the city can be done in 3 to 5 days, learning tango took more time. I stayed one month for practicing tango, I wish I could have stayed more. Here I present how to enjoy the city while staying there.
1. Walk in the city
I like to visit a city by walking in the different neighborhoods, so I have an overview of how the people lives.
San Telmo
Area
San Telmo is a working-class district. It’s really nice to stroll in the streets. On top of that, there are a lot of restaurants and bars for a cheap price and with a warm atmosphere. However, for clubbing the district of Palermo is more famous. I stayed one month in this district while practicing tango.
Feria
Every Sunday, the feria takes place from Plaza Dorrego to the Plaza de Mayo. Lots of merchants sell everything you can need. I recommend the parrilla (BBQ) at crossroads Defensa and Mexico, take a really good Bife de Chorizo (see the picture). It was my weekly Sunday meeting point. The cheapest Mate kit (Bowl and bombilla for 50$) I ever found are located close to the Plaza Mafalda. I even added my name to the bowl.
Palermo
The park (North)
The park is a nice green space for relaxing from the concrete of the city. I often ran around the lake accompanied by other runners and rollerbladers during my stay in Palermo at the beginning. Right nearby, the older train line has been transformed into restaurants and bars. Last, there a planetarium in the park. More to the north, there is another area with a lot of recent street arts. The painters were still painting when I was there in November 2016.
Palermo Soho (South)
The south of Palermo is more a working-class area. As always, the streets are also full of street arts. This is the most common area for hanging out during all night long in clubs and bars. I also believe this area is good for staying a longer time in Buenos Aires for a good price.
Center
Monuments
The center is rich of history about the city and the country. Most of all the monuments are in this area. The most famous one to see are Casa Rosada, Plaza San Martin, Congreso, Catedral Metropolitana, Teatro Colón and Cementerio de la Recoleta. This cemetery is a piece of art with all graves chapels decorated. A well-known library is located close to the cemetery, unfortunately, I missed it.
Free Walking Tour
There are two free walking tours one starting from the Teatro Colón and the other from the Congreso. Although quite long (3 hours), the guide was showing to the group the most beautiful part of the center. Moreover, he was explaining us the history, the current life and some incredible anecdotes. Another walking tour is available in Recoleta, but I didn’t do it.
Teatro Colón
As it could be expensive to get there, the guide from the free walking tour gave us a trick for getting inside and at the same time watch a free concert! That happens one time per month on a Sunday at 11 pm. The music is always performed by an Argentinean band. The only restriction, you should get the tickets the Friday before and it is limited to two places. As I was in Uruguay the specific Sunday, I missed it sadly.
Boca
Another beautiful district called Boca is a must see. Though a poor part of Buenos Aires since ever, this place is a mixed of slump redecorated with lots of colors. The results are impressive and you forget the poverty of the place. Even if you don’t have to worry stay careful, the area is only safe in the touristic streets and during the day!
Puerto Madero
While accommodation here is really really really expensive, the parks are great for relaxing. In front of the parks, the Reserva Del Sur, one of the biggest green place in Buenos Aires. It is specially good for fleeing the craziness of the city. There are both animals and a great view of the estuary. Last tip, I came weekly for running a 8 kms loop inside the Reserva as it is close to San Telmo.
2. Visit museums
As a passionate of arts and history, I always visit museums in big city. Buenos Aires didn’t escape to it and finally impressed me. The two famous one and actually my favorite are Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes and MALBA. For more historical and cultural information about Argentina, the guides in the free walking tour are well informed.
MALBA
Certainly the most famous one, this museum presents different collections of modern artists. The museum is well organized and the explanations are both in English and Spanish. Even if I am not crazy about modern art, I admit that I really like it and recommend it. The museum is free for students on Wednesday.
Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes
An incredible museum with two floors of art for free. The first one is filled with art from Argentina mostly. I didn’t do the second floor but it seems to be more recent art (last century). All the explanation are written in Spanish and English. I tried to do the English tour but it didn’t take place even if it was written on the website. A classic here in Buenos Aires…
Museo del Arte Decorativo
The museum is an old house of a rich family that has been transformed into a museum. The entrance is around 40$ and you can attend to a Spanish tour of the first or second floor. It is beautiful and interesting, worth the money.
Museo Histórico Nacional del Cabildo
I did this one briefly before it closed. All the museum is about the history of the independence of Argentina. I only recommend it if you are curious about history and have more time.
3. Dance tango
Buenos Aires is called the capital of Tango for a good reason, every night lots of places are open to dance. From just watching a show to practice it, I definitely recommend practicing. A good place for tourist and beginner is called La Catedral. For more local and cozy, check Hoy Milonga and choose one milonga. I practiced tango during one month, in this article, I provide lots of advice.
4. Leave the city
After many days in the city, I wanted to do a break and see something else. Thus I did two journeys out of the city, the city of Tigre and Uruguay.